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Alpaca Fiber 101
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How Important is Fiber Quality in Alpacas?
Author: Ted Chepolis
www.alpacacom.com
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Ted Chepolis and his wife, Elaine, of Pine Lake
Alpacas have been breeding alpacas since 1984. Ted was the Alpaca
Editor for Fiberfest Magazine and has written numerous articles
regarding alpacas and alpaca shearing. Ted and Elaine are pioneers and
leaders in the art of alpaca shearing and fiber preparation. In 1996,
they produced the first commercially successful VHS shearing tape,
"Step by Step Shearing: for Alpacas and Llamas" and recently completed
the 2-disc DVD program, "The Complete Alpaca Shearing Guide: to Better
Fleeces and Show Success," now marketed internationally.
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We invite you to visit their website to discover more about "The Complete Alpaca Shearing Guide" (www.alpacacom.com/dvd.html). Ted & Elaine will donate $5 of each purchase to benefit alpaca research.
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This past summer, I had the opportunity to attend a fiber
preparation seminar conducted by Cameron Holt, an Australian fiber
consultant and registered woolclasser. The seminar had three principal
objectives: Educate alpaca owners in current research findings
regarding alpaca fiber. Provide an opportunity for attendees to gain
hands-on experience in wool grading. Encourage development of
industry-wide objectives and standards. I jumped at the chance to learn
from a recognized expert in the field of fiber assessment and
preparation. It was both refreshing and thought provoking to gain an
outsiders (that is outside North America) perspective on north
American alpaca practices. Camerons comments - based on years of study
and observation - made me realize that, while weve made impressive
strides in promoting alpacas, we still have a great deal of work to do
in developing alpacas into a viable industry.
Imagine yourself at an alpaca sale, observing potential buyers as
they inspect the animals. Youll notice that certain techniques for
evaluating the fleece - such as gently spreading the fleece open on the
side of the alpaca and peering into this mysterious space - are used by
practically everyone. Other interested parties employ more exotic
means, such as pulling a few strands of fiber, holding them up to the
light with both hands and studying the sample. A few will tentatively
stroke the fleece or simply observe the alpacas from a distance.Now
focus on the activity of the sellers. They will almost always make some
comment about the fleece (typically, its fineness, crimp or length),
and possibly point out other desirable traits. You might also be given
some information about the alpacas sire and dam, especially if theyre
considered notable in some way (for example, having received
recognition at an alpaca show).This isnt anything new, right? Wherever
alpacas, or any other fiber animals for that matter, are offered for
sale we observe these same dynamics. Potential buyers of fiber-bearing
stock want to assure themselves that the fleece quality is acceptable.
Sellers participate in this process (some more enthusiastically than
others) by offering information that will "enlighten" the buyer.Just so
long as you look good . . . Unfortunately, fiber evaluation is a
deceptively complicated procedure. If youre like most breeders, you
have observed how others (especially the designated experts) evaluate
alpacas. Before long you, too, begin inspecting fleeces with a
"knowing" eye and holding small bits of fiber up to the light. We have
succeeded in talking the talk without really knowing what it is were
trying to accomplish. Collectively, we have perfected the art of using
universal terms of the trade. Crimp, fineness and density have been
used with abandon to describe an amazing array of fleece
characteristics. No matter, as long as we appear to know what were
doing we can maintain our self-styled sense of credibility.Theres been
some changes made . . .The practice of "winging it" in our fiber
promotion efforts has - almost overnight - lost its credibility. Fiber
quality is no longer an art form - a subjective extension of the
successful marketer. It has entered the realm of science and
measurement, placing our alpacas beneath the critical light of
objective assessment. Animals once prized for their (presumed) overall
quality have been pushed aside by a new breed of alpaca; these are
alpacas capable of consistently producing fine, uniform fleeces. Some
of them have been around our farms for years, only to have been
recently rediscovered ("You know, now that I think of it, Chilean Mambo
may not look like much but he sure throws crias with great fleeces.").
Others have recently been imported from South America, the product of a
more deliberate selection process and holding out the hope of elevating
herd quality.At the same time, there has been an infusion of fiber
information into the alpaca community. Recognized experts from all over
the globe are beginning to analyze alpaca fiber and document their
findings. Alpacas have attained an elevated level of respect, and
breeders and buyers alike appear to be taking notice. Success is tied
more closely with quality, rather than hype. This indicates were
finally on our way to doing things right.
The mere presence of Camerons Fiber Preparation Seminar reinforces
this migration toward fiber awareness. The small group attending the
course (graciously hosted by Ken and Julie Safley of Hillsboro, Oregon)
were uniformly eager to soak up as much information as possible;
questions and requests for clarification abounded - signs of a
perfectly timed and well received workshop. It would be impossible to
convey all the information presented at Camerons seminar.
Nevertheless, various concepts and observations were presented that are
worth noting:A Case for Industry-Wide ObjectivesCameron Holt believes
in carefully conceived industry goals. He emphasized the need to have
these goals built around a concensus-derived response to fundamental
questions. Approached at a high level, they drive all other actions and
decisions made by participants in the industry: "Whats the basic purpose of our industry?" "What are our long term objectives?" "What are the tools and actions required to help us achieve these goals?" "How
do we know when we have been successful?" Cameron suggested the effort
expended in answering these questions will go a long way toward
standardization in the alpaca industry. Without them, the strategy of
the month approach may evolve into the dabacle of the decade. I believe
we are heeding this advice in the alpaca industry. Consider the
successful implementation of a blood-typed alpaca registry. This is
perhaps the single most important event in our young history. Recent
efforts to establish standards for future alpaca importations seek to
stabilize growth. And most recently, the proliferation of discussion
regarding micron measurement of alpaca fiber appears to be a
constructive dialogue that will benefit the industry as a whole (Its
interesting to point out that Cameron views micron testing as merely an
aid to alpaca selection. But without first establishing industry-wide
objectives and standards, micron results provide an incomplete
picture).Components of Alpaca Fiber EvaluationIf youve ever tried to
differentiate two fleeces side by side, you begin to appreciate the
difficulty of defining fiber quality. Cameron provided some insight
into this mystery by discussing numerous techniques, characteristics
and terms normally associated with fiber assessment. Heres just a few
that are of particular relevance to understanding the practice of fiber
evaluation:Crimp and Crinkle
Crimp is related to the
fibers as they appear in an intact lock. Its measured in waviness per
unit of length. The prevailing theory is the greater the crimp, the
finer the fleece. Cameron pointed out this isnt always the case,
however. Many Peruvian alpacas have recently been examined that have
little or no crimp, but very fine fleeces.
Crinkle is
the form individual fibers take when the lock is separated. Crinkle is
responsible for the elasticity in fleeces. For example, if you gently
squeeze a fleece, the amount of "springiness" or resistance you
encounter is a result of crinkle. High crimp fleeces have a
corresponding high level of crinkle, producing elasticity in the spun
yarn.
Cameron used an amusing (and
characteristically Aussie) slang phrase when referring to crinkle.
Several times he questioned the group about the amount of springiness
we felt in a fleece by asking, "Whats the Dolly?" or "Whats the
Arnold?" Seems like the influence of celebrities has no end!
This is the ratio of secondary to primary fibers and determines the
density of a fleece. The skin of fiber producing animals is an
elaborately constructed network of hair follicles. In general, a
primary follicle will be surrounded by a multitude of secondary
producing follicles. Fine fibered sheep have an SP ratio of 40 or 50 to
1 (that is, 40 or 50 secondary fibers for every primary fiber). Alpaca
SP ratios vary considerably from one animal to another. This may be due
in part to the wide variation in the South American camelid genetic
pool.
A high SP ratio is a desirable trait, providing it
contributes to defined breeding objectives. There are alpacas that
exhibit good density but have coarse (or in Camerons words, strong)
fiber. The reverse is also true; some alpacas with loose fleeces will
have fine fiber. If our goal as an industry is to select for fine
fiber, combining high SP ratios and fineness makes sense.
Micron testing is a scientific technique that objectively analyzes the
overall quality of a fleece. There are various ways to prepare and
evaluate fiber samples, from very labor intensive, microscopic analysis
to a high-tech laser scanning method.
Micron
testing has been used for years in the textile industry. Its routinely
called upon to accurately classify raw fiber prior to processing. More
recently, the results of micron analysis have been used as a breeder
promotional tool.
The popular thinking goes something
like, "The finer the fleece, the more valuable the animal." As a
result, sampling techniques for micron analysis and the ensuing test
results may be prone to manipulation or, at least,
misrepresentation.
Cameron posed an interesting question
to seminar participants; if we havent established industry objectives
(or at the least, individual breeding goals), how do we know whether or
not micron results are favorable? North American alpaca breeders have
never been reluctant to discuss controversial issues. I suspect the
dialoque which is already beginning on this subject will widen.
All fibered animals become more coarse as they age, but in varying
degrees. Cameron referred to the tendency for fiber to "thicken" over
time as the blowout factor. He stated that alpacas can blow out 5 to 10
microns or more over time. This is an important aspect to consider when
evaluating micron test results (that is, how old was the alpaca when
the fiber sample was taken?).
Breeding animals genetically disposed to retain fineness into adult
life are more likely to produce offspring with the same tendency.
Conversely, alpacas with a high blowout factor may pass this trait onto
their crias. While there are no current standards for measuring
blowout, it can be applied as an informal herd management tool.
According to Cameron, color and fiber quality are not statistically
related. "There are fine whites and there are strong [coarse] whites,"
Cameron stated. The beauty of this observation is that we need not be
restricted to a specific color if our goal is fineness.
Fleece sampling in preparation for micron testing is a
relatively new topic for North American alpaca breeders. Cameron noted
that a multitude of variables come into play when assessing fleece
quality, with micron analysis being just one of them.
There
are three basic techniques to obtain a fiber sample for micron
analysis. To ensure reliable results, the sample should be a minimum of
two square inches with the fibers snipped just at skin level:
A section of fleece is obtained from a single site on the side of
the alpaca. If the fleece is shorn, the sample is collected from a
location which approximates the animals side.
Samples are taken from three sites on the side of the alpaca.
Samples from a shorn fleece are collected from three random locations.
This technique offers little statistical improvement over the mid-site
technique.
This technique is used with shorn fleeces and is the most accurate.
A grid is placed over the entire fleece and small samples are obtained
from each opening.
Regardless of how the alpaca industry evolves, fiber will continue
to be a significant issue. Thankfully, we seem to have preserved the
alpacas primary function; to produce high quality fiber. The questions
will arise in determining the most desirable characteristics of that
fiber, and then identifying its ultimate purpose.
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